Saving Savile Row

Even when rain washes over its proud, cobbled stones, Savile Row keeps a quietly confident manner. The street synonymous with tailoring has been a valued part of British culture since the early eighteenth century, and little has phased the Row’s crisp and undisputed style – until now. As rent on the Row increases and shoppers turn to instant, disposable clothing or big brand names, the tailor’s story could be coming to an end. Last month saw tailor’s Hardy Amies, once the toast of Britain, go into administration. And it’s not only the credit crunch. Britain’s changing shopping habits and the demise of the individual tailored garment could put Savile Row out of business for good.

For centuries, the name Savile Row has stood on its own as a byword for handcrafted quality and style. The Row has dressed an endless number of famed names, from Sinatra to Jude Law. Years of precision and skill practiced on the Row have resulted in the most respected tailoring in the world. The craftsmen on Savile Row not only produce perfectly fitting garments that can be worn for decades, but they also train the tailors of tomorrow. Some of today’s most influential designers including Alexander McQueen have worked as an apprentice on the street, a testament to the fact that traditions are what keep British fashion-and Savile Row-a cut above the rest.

However, as rent increases on the Row more and more tailors are being forced to move on to surrounding streets or away from the area entirely. There are now only 19 tailors left, around half compared with 50 years ago. And because of decreasing trade and financial needs, tailors of the Row are finding themselves having to move their skills abroad and open up to the world. The unique experience of visiting Savile Row to be measured for a bespoke suit is now available elsewhere. The Row has real problems.

Anderson and Sheppard has been a leading Savile Row firm since its establishment in 1906. The traders took up their place at No. 30 Savile Row, but after 99 years on the street they found themselves unable to keep shop. In March 2005, the business moved to Old Burlington Street. Even with custom from the likes of Laurence Olivier, Fred Astaire, Manolo Blahnik and Prince Charles, the shop struggled with rising rents.

However, Anderson and Sheppard are hopeful that Savile Row will be saved if we leave fast fashion in the past and look at wiser ways to shop.

“It has to be said that London is not in the mood to spend and people are travelling less,” says Anda Rowland of Anderson and Sheppard. “Luckily, despite the turn away from ‘Bling’ spending, there has been a turn towards goods that have an underlying value which is perceived as more solid.”

Disposable clothing has become increasingly common on the high street, with shoppers buying cheaper clothes that are badly fitted and low quality, lasting only a short time. Anderson and Sheppard think this type of attitude in shopping should be reversed and that consumers may need to think more about the long term benefits of quality buys. “There is a shift from the ‘Because I’m worth it’ attitude towards one questioning ‘Was it worth it?’” says Rowland. “This will be hard for the mass-luxury goods, and the hyped, but extremely lucrative ‘it-bag’ industry, but good for individual, high craft items made by skilled hands.”

One person who has recognised the need for this change in shopping behaviour is business entrepreneur Tara Robinson. With her tall, slim frame and long limbs, for years she struggled to find a shirt that fitted her. That is, until she discovered the world of tailoring.

“I just don’t fit in the commercial sizing that every high street and high fashion brand uses, the same as so many people,” Tara says. “So, I decided to have a shirt made for me. It fitted me perfectly and felt so comfortable I wanted to order more, straight away!”

In fact, she was so impressed by it she began her own tailoring business, specialising in shirts. Launching in December, Hard Press Threads is a web based company that creates made-to-measure shirts. Tara aims to make tailoring more accessible for everyone, as well as helping to keep the spirit of Savile Row alive through www.hardpressthreads.co.uk. “We don’t care enough about our clothes anymore,” she adds. “The majority of people shop for clothes that are disposable. If you buy something that was made for you, you can pretty much guarantee that it will last longer from better quality fabric, workmanship and more time.”

But time costs money. Savile Row is paved with history, and sees great numbers of people willing to spend their time there. However, without investment from visitors the traditional values might be all the street has left. Thomas Mahon, from Savile Row’s English Cut says that the remaining tailors on the Row are struggling to keep afloat as the street attracts more tourists than customers. “All we want is a fair exchange for our services. If we try to keep tailors’ workshops on the street it makes for a nice tourist attraction, but for a small business this is simply not economic reality. We cannot survive on window shoppers.”

But there is hope. Like art and couture, bespoke garments can gain value with time. And as the credit crunch hits Britain, value is becoming central to the way we shop. Investing in clothing could save tailors like Anderson and Sheppard, and keep the craft alive. Tailoring could transform the way clothes look and the way they make you feel, if it was only allowed back into the nation’s wardrobes.

Savile Row was where it all began, and Britain is lucky to have those tailors to its name. But unless we make this move and begin to consider the ageless alternative to our ‘have it now’ habits, we could lose an art that has shaped our fashion industry for years. Keep our timeless British style where it belongs, and invest in Savile Row. “As consumer behaviour changes there is only one thing tailors on the Row can do,” says Mahon. “And that is – fight it out.”